Decision by commission to ditch proposed olive oil serving rules for restaurants provokes anger … and a songbook
They provoked widespread ridicule and were a gift to those who accuse Brussels of interfering in domestic politics.
But yesterday proposed new rules on how restaurants should serve olive oil were shown to have a rather shorter shelf-life than one of the bottles they purported to protect, as the European commission ditched them, provoking glee among critics but anger in at least one of the major oil-producing countries.
Six days after it unveiled its plan to ban restaurateurs from giving customers olive oil in refillable glass jugs or dipping bowls, the commission was forced into an embarrassing U-turn by a torrent of criticism from northern European media and political leaders, including David Cameron.
In a contrite appearance in Brussels, the EU farm commissioner, Dacian Ciolos, said it had become obvious to him that many consumers did not approve of the mooted rules, which were due to come into force on 1 January next year.
"I've decided to withdraw this proposal," said the Romanian, adding: "I've been very alive to the debate in the press."
Ciolos said he would attempt to find new ways to help protect both the consumers and producers of olive oil. The industry has suffered badly during the economic crisis ravaging southern Europe, home to the three largest olive oil producing countries – Spain, Italy and Greece.
The commission's unusual backtrack was welcomed by those who had criticised the rules as unworkable, unnecessary and potentially wasteful.
Owen Paterson, the UK environment secretary, said: "I am glad that the commission has seen sense and backed down on these arbitrary rules. They would have interfered with businesses, imposed unnecessary costs and taken choice away from consumers."
Alyn Smith, a member of the European parliament for the Scottish National Party, wrote on Twitter: "#Oliveoil proposal was, after all, virgin on the ridiculous :-) Was only ever a floated idea, now history, bravo." Within hours, a so-called "olive oil songbook" began to circulate on the site, with gems including: "Unrefillable, that's what you are" and "Je ne vinaigrette rien".
There was no such hilarity, however, in Italy, one of the 15 EU member states that had backed the rules, as opposed to the three, including Britain, that abstained and the nine that voted against.
Along with Greece and Spain, Italy had supported the measures as a way of protecting its producers and fighting fraudulent practices involving inferior oil being passed off as something better.
"Bad news for the 'Made in Italy' agricultural sector and for consumer protection. The commission's U-turn … is a defeat for all the countries that have always fought hard against fraud and scams at the table," said the confederation of Italian farmers.
"Once again we must observe that Europe has rejected a regulation supported by some 15 countries, among which were the main producers like Italy and Spain, and has instead rewarded those who had opposed it from the start such as the northern [member] states, starting with Germany, the Netherlands and Britain," it added.
The new Italian government was also displeased. "For us this is a cultural and legal battle," said Nunzia De Girolamo, agriculture minister. The new rules would have improved the system, she said.
Paolo de Castro, chair of the European parliament's commission for agriculture and rural development, criticised the move, which he said had "stunned" him.
"[It] unfortunately is part of a dangerous trend which goes against the very meaning of Europe," he said, according to the Ansa news agency. "It is the latest case in which we can see European institutions retreating before a split, with a north that wants to influence consumer choices and that trivialises everything that relates to quality, at least as it is understood in the Mediterranean."
Over the past week the proposals had been met with derision in much of the northern European media. The Süddeutsche Zeitung said they were "the weirdest decision since the legendary curvy cucumber regulation".
The Telegraph quoted Sam Clark, the proprietor of Moro in London, as saying the ban was "about choice and freedom of choice", while chef Yotam Ottolenghi told the Guardian: "As you can imagine I'm not a Ukip supporter, but this is ridiculous."
De Castro, however, took a sideswipe at the mockery, saying: "It's a serious matter when a proposal like [this one] which has been discussed for a year and which is part of a wider plan of action to boost the sector is withdrawn because of a media campaign of inflamed tones."
In a report, the newspaper Il Sole 24 Ore remarked: "The criticisms of the British press (along with the opposition voiced by other northern European countries like Holland) were enough to persuade … Ciolos to make a substantial step backwards, withdrawing the proposal."
The criticism had not only come from the press, however. David Cameron, battling a rise in support for the Eurosceptic party Ukip, made no bones about criticising the proposal. "This is exactly the sort of area that the European Union needs to get right out of, in my view," he said last week. "It shouldn't even be on the table, to make a false pun."